Fits & Bits: February 2025 Newsletter - Monthly Recap
Each month, we’ll bring you a curated roundup of our favorite trends, standout stylists, and street style highlights. Expect the debut of our latest podcast episode, seasonal wishlist and playlist recommendations, our most-used and best-loved products, and, of course, all the hottest fashion tea.
Fashion Week Recap
Amid the whirlwind of Fashion Month—which has delayed this newsletter—I’ve been jotting down scattered notes on the standout moments from London, New York, Paris, and Milan, all while reading and absorbing critiques from both experts and viewers.
London Fashion Week may be ranked lowest in terms of interest this season, thanks to its limited lineup of emerging brands—and honestly, that’s not too surprising. The standout moment for was what we expected to be Daniel Lee’s last hurrah, with his breathtaking Burberry presentation. Every look was stellar, and while I’ve always been a fan of DL’s Burberry, I want to let it be known that I was always a the target audience the prices hikes is what really put me off. Even the influencer girlies got their shoes and accessories of previous seasons from the outlet stores. But it was rare to see a British brand, led by a British designer, make such a lasting impression in the press—a short-lived yet unforgettable moment.
Just a couple of years ago, I found myself on the opposite side of this debate, echoing voices like @Flyrebel on Twitter: “From Richard Quinn and Chopova Lowena to Erdem, Simone Rocha, and Jawara Alleyne, London still exudes a whimsical, playful spirit. It never takes itself too seriously, and that’s what I love about it.” I couldn’t agree more. London continues to foster fresh talent, even if these brands often lack the budgets or funds of their counterparts. That raw talent still emanates from places like CSM—a title we once reserved for New York shows.
Overall, the themes I took away from these shows in Milan and Paris is that it’s every woman for herself—a genuine rallying cry for female empowerment. The SS25 presentations last September had a distinctly romantic vibe, evoking an exploration of nostalgic girlhood at shows by Miu Miu, Sandy Liang, 16 Arlington, Ferragamo, The Attico, and others, where designers decided that women could finally start having fun again. With an abundance of Minnie dresses and a pastel-infused palette, I’m eagerly anticipating a girly summer.
Across several collections during fashion week, brands tapped into a raw sensuality. The mini dress is clearly a must for SS25, and Jawara Alleyne’s collection struck a nostalgic chord—early 2000s-inspired yet undeniably modern to me. As we moved away from recycled Y2K trends, FW25 womenswear began to mature. The aesthetic shifted towards what many now call “ugly chic”: a grown, sexy evolution that departs from the innocence of girlhood and romance, exuding powerful feminine energy, as Vanessa Friedman described it.
After years of dressing down, embracing office-core styles, and minimalistic quiet luxury, women are finally taking charge. As reneeoffthecuff put it, “the resurgence of glamour is already unfolding.” With drama making a welcome return, what could be more dramatic than the ’80s? The bold fashion codes of the 1980s—which once intimidated me, perhaps because I feared stepping into my own potential—signaled a time for working women. Big hips and broad shoulders was coming like armor during several runway shows for this Fall. Oversized garments transformed the wearer into an undeniable force, truly “an instrument for occupying space.” I loved that sentiment, exactly as Vanessa encapsulated in her Alaia FW25 review. Not like before when the clothes got bigger because the pockets were smaller.
Is an answer to the overblown “masculine energy,” in politics and everyday relationships being called it on TikTok, finally be meeting its match beyond the runway. Rather than masculinizing the female body, women are choosing not to turn themselves down, but to turn themselves up. After years marked by deception (in relationships), higher rates of singleness among women, evidence that women benefit less from marriage, lower birth rates, and ongoing attempts to restrict bodily autonomy, this response seems to challenge patriarchal domination head on. Take YSL’s SS25 suits, for example, who really wears the pants? the tie? the blazer???. Instead of merely adopting a masculine aesthetic Mr. Mulier at Alaïa—who, in his show notes, detailed exploring the entire “topography of the female form through curves and padding, through layers that act like an armor to shield”—this season’s decadent, sexy shoulder designs boldly remind us who’s truly in charge.
The focus has shifted away from traditional luxury—“fashion is evolving into a conceptual fusion of utility, construction aesthetics, and civil servant pragmatism”, as @mightbechule put it. Will we go to war? Probably soon. The men will fight, and the women will adapt, implementing war dress codes into their wardrobes.
The numerous white men designing for women seem intent on ensuring we are protected, taking up space, and moving beyond objectification. But what even is the male gaze if Prada and Raf Simons are actively encouraging us to question beauty standards? Miu Miu and Prada will always contend with one another, yet their objective remains the same: allowing women to define their own expression of femininity, despite societal pressures around beauty and style. As @Kimbino put it, Prada exuded “an air of maturity, self-assurance without flamboyance,” while Miu Miu stepped in as the vibrant, playful, sultry little sister—a perfect juxtaposition.
Another shift we’re now adapting to: “privacy and process are the new luxe”. Beautiful Ferragamo perspective from @mightbechule. Just as brands have been called out for using cheap materials, they’re now pivoting to transparency—showing us the process behind their products. Case in point: Moschino’s teaser posts leading up to the show, or the making-of video for Miu Miu’s Upcycled Holiday 2024 collection. While Miu Miu’s video focuses on sustainability, other luxury brands will likely follow suit, integrating behind-the-scenes content into their marketing, often in collaboration with influencers.
It’s reminiscent of the Twitter trend “the set vs. the shot”—where consumers are invited behind the curtain to see the full production process, ensuring they know exactly what they’re spending their money on. In this new era of luxury, privacy speaks for itself—going offline is the new black.
The fashion community was sad at her departure from Alexander McQueen (his prodigy), naturally the fashion community was gassed about Sarah Burton’s debut at Givenchy, but the conflicting reactions to her vision for womenswear have me thinking—is it modern? Is it cool?
As @houseofdeviart put it, “It was womenswear designed through the eyes of a woman. If you don’t think this is modern or cool, get your eyes checked.” But not everyone was convinced. One person asked, “Ok, but why would you open your debut show at a prestigious French couture house with a bodysuit?” Someone else fired back, “That looks like a lip-sync outfit for Erika Jayne.” Others saw it differently—“I kind of loved it. Felt like a nod to the Tisci-era Givenchy?” Meanwhile, Louis Pisano weighed in, saying, “That look is for the BBL girls who still wear the shark boots lol.” And then there was the clubwear critique—“Omg, the mesh bodysuits and dresses were so jarring! Giving clubwear. Everything else was beautiful, but those shocked me ngl.”
I was fully taking in these Twitter conversations like they were reports from fashion journalists or PR teams. My takeaway? With all the BBL discourse that popped off when PrettyLittleThing announced their rebrand, here we are again—yet another shift in which body type is deemed “in,” while others get pushed out. Can we get an homage to the women who actually keep these brands on the map? BBL or not, they’ve lowkey been trendsetters for years, and that first look high fashion’s Ode to thee outfit for the fashion that’s been happening in the world of Real Housewives and rap-star divas.
IT Brand
Initially, I wasn’t entirely sold on the collection, but the SS25 pieces quickly captured my attention—a sentiment that soon made perfect sense. I was particularly drawn to the layered polos this season, with look 12 truly standing out. The SS25 line evoked a strong sense of nostalgia through its silhouettes, while Jawara Alleyne’s FW25 collection masterfully exemplified his philosophy of “elegant deshabillage” by deconstructing traditional construction.
Jawara Alleyne, a celebrated Cayman Island born, London based brand even catching Rihanna’s eye, delivers his FW25 collection with a commitment to creating something the high street simply can’t replicate. There’s a deliberate allure in the intentionally unfinished look—every visible seam conjures a sense of transformation and endless possibility. This approach challenges today’s fashion landscape, which often prioritizes flawless, mass-produced aesthetics, even among houses renowned for their craftsmanship.
By leaving details purposefully raw, the collection invites us to engage in the design process, questioning how garments come together. True sustainability, in this light, isn’t about ticking off eco-friendly checkboxes; it’s about embedding responsible practices into every stage of creation. Ultimately, the best designs work with the body, celebrating its natural form rather than forcing it into a rigid ideal.
Who I’m Listening to:
What’s Contemporary Now? Podcast 9: Beyond the Fit: Jahleel Weaver on Style & Influence -
Early 2000s music videos? Pure style education. The bigger the artist, the bigger the brands, the more legendary the moment. I was young, but I knew I there was a whole lot more about fashion to be uncovered. LL Cool J in Luv U Better, dripped out in a FUBU and Kangol bucket hats, had le infatuated with what we know today as streetwear (specifically form black owned brands) it convinced me my destiny involved a blinged-out beefcake of my own.
Jahleel’s career took off through his work with Mel Ottenberg—such a crucial connection, considering Mel and Rih were already an unstoppable duo before the Law and Zendaya era. He broke down his and Rih’s journey in fashion, how they’ve been crafting her visual legacy since 2011, and how her fearless approach to style isn’t just for show—it’s about pushing boundaries. We always credit Miss Phresh off the runway for her style evolution, but Jahleel has been the key force behind it, from styling to creative direction to launching Fenty Corp as Deputy Creative Director at LVMH’s fashion maison.
One thing that stuck with me was his take on fashion mistakes—going with your gut so you don’t have those “what if” fashion faux pas moments. That hit home. I once swore one NYE to always stick to my first outfit choice after years of second-guessing and regretting it later. That feeling, that moment, that exact combination of pieces? Once it’s gone, it’s gone.
So many gems in this convo. Love hearing one of my faves break down his journey. This is exactly what I want to do with Fits et Bits—go behind the scenes with the movers and shakers, the ones actually shaping fashion imagery, who often get overlooked in the bigger conversation.
My Fave Luxury Shopper Serving Hauls & Gems
Fave shopper alert: I first came across Lauren Luo when I via Yuri’s Market’s “Releasing the Closet” tour. Even though I’m not typically a thrifter or vintage shopper, their sustainable vibe completely won me over—healing the planet one purchase at a time. Now, whenever I hear “haul time” on TikTok, I know it’s a cue to tune in to my favorite show. Lauren Luo recently dropped a haul on her YouTube channel, “Life of Luo Luo,” and I’ve been hooked ever since. She encapsulates the spirit of girlhood with her effortless mix of dining out, GRWM routines, unboxings, and shopping adventures.
My Relatable Winter Style Icons
@Keoshamydesire called out on twitter for wearing Lululemon to a dinner date with influencer @GUACAWOLE, little did twitter’s fashion know she was not new to this.
Ayo Edibiri styled by Danielle Goldberg a duo match made in heaven. Whether it’s red carpet of street style Ayo has been dominating this past month. excited to recreate look 2 with the Jean Paul Gaultier trompe oeil shirt SS96 this spring, with a fun lightweight oversize coat !!!
Justin Bieber honorable mention most stylish this man this month bar ASAP Rocky and Timothee who have been consistently in their bag this 1st quarter.
7 mags to collect this month
podcast ep002:
Where do get dressed and why?
When I asked real shoppers this question, the typical response was to list the favorite stores and spots where they shop. It’s rare to hear someone say, “my own wardrobe,” since I’m a proud outfit repeater myself. I’m yet to unpack what I spoke about with the stylish and stylists—there is much to expect! Fortunately ,I managed to draw out a few thoughtful responses with my fellow shopping partners in crime, but for the most part, I was met with a flood of “I just like the brand” answers.
Today, for instance, I’m rocking what I call a “double MR” fit— meaning my outfit includes two Martine Rose pieces for good luck, just in case anything unexpected happens. I love being instantly recognizable when I decide to wear Martine Rose. While I was on my way to lunch earlier this week, a guy even caught up with me and insisted I take off my headphones to point out how killer my jacket looked! I’m not exactly shopping for compliments, but they definitely fill the me up where my wallet was once emptied, haha. Ultimately, I’m a huge Martine Rose fan because I’m completely drawn to the universe she’s created, and as a fellow Black Brit, I make it a point to support Black-owned brands that truly represent me.