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Fits “on the Move” Edit: Aug 23

andre leon talley: style is forever exhibition

The exhibition will showcase nearly 70 looks from André Leon Talley’s personal collection—spanning prêt-à-porter to couture and one of one tailored suits.

Having read both of Talley’s memoirs, I see how his story unfolds powerfully through fashion. Raised by his grandmother, he was taught that dressing well was both an act of self-respect and respect for others—a sentiment deeply rooted in many African American and diasporic families.

I’ve noticed a common thread among the fashion figures I admire: thrifting as a starting point. Law Roach turned it into a business, while Talley sharpened his eye and developed impeccable taste. Known later for his dramatic accessories—Manolo Blahnik and Roger Vivier shoes, luxury Louis Vuitton mallets and sweeping capes—his early style was quite different. Before the larger-than-life persona, he lived for straw hats, bow ties, shorts with long socks, and then bespoke tailored double-breasted suits. As his body changed, so did his wardrobe. He still wore exquisite handmade suits, but they were layered under grand coats—because, as NeNe once said, “when you can afford it, they make it for you.”

What gives me pure joy are the details that reveal his world: “The bedrooms—there were many—were mostly subsumed by his endless wardrobe.” Imagine that much taste curated under one roof, by one man. Or Hamish Bowles’ description of him as “a distant, almost mythic figure… a curious mixture of bravado (even braggadocio), glamour, kindness, and faith.”

After all my years of research, study, and admiration—seeing this celebration of Talley finally arrive feels like witnessing history dressed in its finest, coming up after the Tailored Style Met Gala this year.

duran (lantink) the man

A girl like me can’t see a Duran Lantink piece without trying it on. His avant-garde, deadstock-hybrid creations have become a real obsession of mine. Every time I catch one of his interviews or spot his work on a cover, it sparks a little joy inside me.

For all the times I’ve written about what excites me in fashion on Fits et Bits—inflated silhouettes, building a durable wardrobe, vintage-yet-futuristic storytelling—Lantink embodies all of it. While so many brands had abandoned house codes and individuality in favour of that minimal beige era (that, let’s be honest, didn’t exactly deliver excellent sales), Duran has been quietly bubbling to the top. I have incredibly high hopes for what he’ll bring to Jean Paul Gaultier.

Tagwalk even listed him as one of the brands on the rise. His label (2019–2025) felt like one of the most unique experiments in fashion: endlessly evolving, conscious, and playful with construction. One of my favorite aspects of his work is how he frames the process itself: “This continuous dialogue between designer and owner makes each creation inherently timeless and one-of-a-kind.”

Now, with his appointment as permanent creative director at JPG, the Lantink era is about to begin. His first RTW collection will show in Paris during women’s fashion week, September 2025, with his haute couture debut scheduled for January 2026.

In the meantime can anyone locate me to the Duran Lantink sample sale…

Mariah the Stylish

Mariah the Scientist is the walking definition of No Stylist by Drake and French Montana. If there was ever a moment for an R&B girl to give us an iconic fashion run—something strong enough to amplify her incredible penmanship—it’s now. I need that visual storytelling and I don’t mean music videos.

I came across a Twitter thread outlining exactly the type of direction Mariah could lean into this era: a war for love, framing “a soldier as a representation of a woman’s unwavering dedication to love.” The thread laid out a thoughtful RTW selection that could be tailored into Mariah’s aesthetic, really pushing her visual storytelling.

In reality, Mariah and stylist Jaclyn Fleurant have already played with this angle—tapping into female wartime fashion with pieces that echo a toy soldier get up with the a touch of seduction as battle armour for love. This is exactly how future stylists pitch now: through narrative-driven image building. Because let’s be real—some of the most “highly recommended” stylists still miss the mark when it comes to curating a lasting image and telling a story through dress.

Carla Mbappe